How To Remove Lathe Chuck

Lathe chuck removal

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Curtis Rutter	11/04/2017 20:06:35
132 forum posts 14 photos	having now acquired a independent 4 jaw chuck, Im somewhat perplexed on how to remove the current iii jaw chuck from my Myford ML7. In that location's lots of hints on removing a stuck three jaw chuck but nowhere can I detect the "official" way to remove it under normal circumstances, i.e. Where information technology's not stuck on and the manual hasn't shed any lite.
Bizibilder	eleven/04/2017 twenty:51:25
122 forum posts 7 photos	Lock the headstock (perchance by engaging the backgear if the ML7 doesn't accept a locking bolt). Put a slice of timber (hardwood for preference) in the chuck crossways. Use a piece a bit over ane" square and a couple of feet long, holding information technology nearly the end. Apply pressure to the timber to undo the chuck. If this doesn't work try hitting the timber with your paw. if still no joy so ascendancy the timber with a hefty hammer!
Gordon A	11/04/2017 20:51:36
157 forum posts 4 photos	Myford ML7 lathe Notes on Installation and Maintenance (Publication No 701) states:- "When removing a chuck (or face plate), practise not "yank" the chuck off with the headstock locked with back-gear, but set the headstock for normal back-gear drive, and later on placing a piece of hard wood on the lathe bed, pull the spindle round by means of the chugalug so that one jaw of the chuck or slot in the face plate strikes the woods sharply. The most obstinate chuck is released in this way, and a great deal of load is taken from the back-gear teeth". It worked for me, good luck and have care not to pinch your fingers between the chugalug and pulley. Gordon.
Jon	11/04/2017 22:08:05
1001 forum posts 49 photos	Mine was a bowwow not a cats in hells gamble past Myfords recommended method, chugalug slips. But way out lock the spindle but wont say how on hither, spanner on a jaw and sharp tap left hand thread.
ega	11/04/2017 22:41:17
2538 forum posts 201 photos	Perhaps it is worth once again mentioning Lawrence Sparey's Myford spindle locking spanner (my brief article about my own version of this is backside the clock on the editor's mantlepiece).
Mike Poole	xi/04/2017 22:46:22
Moderator 3334 forum posts 73 photos	Using the back gear to lock the spindle is fraught with danger, whatever torque or stupor applied to the chuck is carried by petty more than ane tooth of the dorsum gear. If the chuck is not jammed on the nose it may well release easily but if it is stuck hard then think nigh the load on the poor molar. Resist the temptation to use the chuck key as a lever as the sockets volition break. Endeavor a very large Allen key tightened in the chuck jaws or a bar locked in the jaws to give a lever. At the finish of the twenty-four hour period a backplate is cheap compared to the harm that can be done to the spindle and gears so unbolting the chuck and machining the backplate abroad can make economical sense. If the chuck is of the threaded body blazon then peradventure the risk of damage is a bit more than worthwhile. Information technology is worth stopping to recollect where the strength you are applying is going, there is usually a key or pin that is going to transmit the drive and so shocks and high leverage is going to be applied to some parts that were not designed to have these forces. Locking or jamming pulleys or gears is the only strategy available simply just remember that most of these parts can be bent or broken if too much power is applied. Mike Edited Past Mike Poole on xi/04/2017 22:47:56
Curtis Rutter	xi/04/2017 23:36:27
132 forum posts fourteen photos	Posted past ega on 11/04/2017 22:41:17: Perhaps it is worth again mentioning Lawrence Sparey's Myford spindle locking spanner (my cursory commodity about my own version of this is behind the clock on the editor's mantlepiece). Accept sent you a message Thank you for all the tips, also looking at a spindle locking handle, would come in handy for tapping and threading
ega	12/04/2017 17:01:10
2538 forum posts 201 photos	Curtis Rutter: I have replied to your rmessage. Edited By ega on 12/04/2017 17:01:22
bricky	12/04/2017 twenty:54:19
575 forum posts 68 photos	I remove my chucks by fiitting a piece of occtagonal bar in the jaws and use a spanner afterward locking the headstock.This has also worked on a jammed chuck. \Frank
roy entwistle	12/04/2017 21:26:02
1525 forum posts	Bricky How do you lock the headstock on an ML7 ? Roy ( And please don't say put it in backgear )
Neil Wyatt	12/04/2017 21:48:06
Moderator 19032 forum posts 734 photos 80 articles	Posted past ega on 11/04/2017 22:41:17: Perhaps information technology is worth again mentioning Lawrence Sparey's Myford spindle locking spanner (my cursory commodity about my own version of this is behind the clock on the editor'due south mantlepiece). ?
bricky	12/04/2017 22:11:59
575 forum posts 68 photos	I have a Super 7 and I don't know if the ML7 has a spindle lock. Frank
ega	12/04/2017 23:22:25
2538 forum posts 201 photos	Neil Wyatt: PM sent re your ?
Curtis Rutter	xiii/04/2017 05:51:46
132 forum posts 14 photos	Posted by bricky on 12/04/2017 22:eleven:59: I have a Super 7 and I don't know if the ML7 has a spindle lock. Frank No it doesn't
Nick Hulme	13/04/2017 08:44:36
750 forum posts 37 photos	I'll add a useful thread accost here simply because I abhor the use of PMs for useful information which should be posted on the open forum where it will be helpful to people searching later rather than providing them with a dead end and some PM references. http://world wide web.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112932 Nick Edited By Nick Hulme on 13/04/2017 08:45:06
ega	13/04/2017 10:35:xviii
2538 forum posts 201 photos	Nick Hulme: Cheers for reminding me of this thread. The reason for my resorting to PM now was that I envisaged sharing with the OP an article submitted for publication in the magazine and wanted to avoid any question of conflict with MTM'south firm rules.
Hopper	13/04/2017 12:22:34
6379 forum posts 334 photos	As the owner of an ML7 with a busted tooth on the dorsum gear, I'd 2nd all comments regarding not using dorsum gear to lock the spindle. The 20DP teeth are not very sturdy and the gear is bandage iron so prone to snapping rather than yielding. If the chugalug slips while using the Myford recommended method it might be worth looking at new belts - if they are over x years old they will have gone hard and slippery. It is not usually possible to slip a properly tensioned new V chugalug by hand. When I fit the new back gear i volition exist drilling the actress pigsty needed to use the Sparey locking tool, though. Edited Past Hopper on 13/04/2017 12:24:57
Howard Lewis	14/04/2017 fourteen:00:55
6104 forum posts fourteen photos	The chucks on my lathe screw on (merely have dogs to prevent so unscrewing when used in contrary). I have drilled a hole into the chuck, or backplate. Into this Is inserted a piece of round silver steel, which is gripped (not welded) into a boss on a piece of rectangular bar. With the belt tightened, and the retaining dogs removed, the rectangular bar is held with the longer side vertical, and the terminate hit with a copper/hide mallet. Works every fourth dimension! Applying the same technique to a slice of fairly big diameter hexagon, (or square if a iv jaw) gripped in the jaws should work as well. Another possibility would be to cutting a piece of wood so that, when resting on the rear of the bed, a chuck jaw makes widespread contact. Spinning the chuck, BY HAND , not ability, and so that one of the jaws hits the wood, may slacken it. Preferably, the contact between wood and jaw should be equally close to the chuck body, as possible. Howard
Niels Abildgaard	17/04/2017 07:18:07
429 forum posts 159 photos	If Chuck is really stuck this helps LINK In that location are to many broken back gears out in that location.
Howard Lewis	17/04/2017 20:09:55
6104 forum posts 14 photos	It should exist taken every bit read NOT to engage back gear equally a means of locking the Mandrel to remove the Chuck. A friend regularly used to inquire me to cutting new gears for him until he realised the mistake of doing this. With a tight belt, the motor and mandrel ought to provide enough inertia for the "precipitous tap" technique to gratuitous the Chuck. One time it has slackened a few degrees, it should be possible to unscrew it by mitt. If it doesn't. there is something actually wrong! A suddenly app;lied force has twice the effect of a gradually applied i. If you don't believe what my Physics primary told the states, just draw the graphs! Is it necessary to abet a wooden chuck lath to safeguard the bed when the chuck does unscrew? Howard