How To Repair A Maytag Dryer
The dryer started to screech. That horrible metal-on-metal scraping audio that indicated something was definitely wrong! If you are having this issue, read this picture guide showing the trouble and solution for a relatively cheap repair!
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Hello everyone, welcome back! The Maytag Bravos dress dryer started screeching the other twenty-four hours. The smoking gun was when nosotros plant a long bit of the felt drum-seal wound tightly effectually some clothes that had been drying! The felt seal was failing. Hither is the felt seal kit and the following article details the process I used to supercede information technology. I hope you detect information technology helpful!
Note: If your dryer is squealing instead of screeching (subtle sound divergence, I know!) you may accept a different problem that require replacing the dryer roller-cycle bearings supporting the dryer drum.
Okay, on the the seal repair!
Tools and supplies required for this repair:
- 5/16 in socket (or wrench)
- Flat screwdriver
- Metal paint scraper
- Sandpaper
- jump clamps
- repair kit 280140 (felt seal with agglutinative) or repair kit (#W10612022)
How to Take Apart a Maytag Dryer
Here is the front panel of the dryer. The model number of my dryer is Maytag Bravos Model# MEDB850WQ0. This dryer has a 27-inch drum (outer diameter). The bore at the identify where you lot put the felt seal is 25-inches.
This likewise applies to the post-obit model numbers: MEDB200VQ0, Samsung DV448AEW/XAA, Samsung DV330AG, Maytag Neptune MDG9700A, Samsung DV328, Samsung #DV45k6200GW, Kenmore Elite ST, and others.
This is the felt pulsate seal that failed (picture below). These are supposed to be connected… The inner one shown below is the piece that was wound effectually some clothes!
The model number of the felt seal is 280140 or W10612022 you need the felt seal with 2 layers and a diameter of 25 inches.
These kits contain the replacement felt seal and the agglutinative glue.
Here is a shut up view of the failed felt seal.
If you lot are set up to tackle this simple repair, read on!
The starting time step is to UNPLUG THE DRYER!
Then, printing the metal tabs to release the top of the dryer and tip it upwards. Apply something like a metal pigment scraper to press the tabs, one on each side of the forepart-loading door.
Here is a shot of the tab released. Information technology is the greenish metallic slice. This is what is being pressed inward with the paint scraper to release the elevation.
Tip the top back and rest it against the wall, or use a bit of string to hold information technology from flopping backward.
Next, release the connector. Information technology has small tabs top and bottom that need to be forced outward. Use something like a small-scale flat screwdriver to pry them outward while pulling the connector apart.
Here is the disconnected electrical connector.
After the electrical connector is complimentary, remove 2 screws from the inside of the front end panel of the dryer. These are v/16″ screws. I used a ratchet. Once those are loose, lift the front end panel up, out of its back up tabs at the bottom of the dryer, and set the front end panel aside.
This is what yous are left with. Now take out vi screws (5/16″) to remove the front drum back up.
4 of the screws are effectually the edges.
Ii of the screws are in the silver baffling down below.
Too disconnect another electrical connection near the bottom.
Now the front end retaining section volition lift up and away. Note that there are some bike attached to this that scroll along the drum as it spins, so y'all may need to elevator up on the drum a footling to get the front panel free.
Too the drum will want to sag downwards, so put something under information technology well-nigh 6 inches loftier or then to support it (a bottle of detergent on its side works nicely).
In the epitome below you can see where the metallic-on-metal screeching was occurring. The felt seal had failed. You tin can see what remains of information technology beneath. The top part is fine, but in that location is supposed to be some felt between the 2 metallic pieces as well.
For purposes of clarity, the pulsate diameter for my dryer was 25 inches at the point where the felt seal fits on, as seen below.
Hither is the failed front seal.
Notation: The seal at the front and the dorsum of the drum are identical for this type of dryer. It may exist wise to replace both at the same time. If one has failed, the other may not be far behind.
The next step is to remove the drum. Before doing this, nosotros must unhook the pulsate drive belt. Achieve underneath the pulsate and unhook it from the tensioner wheel. The belt is the one at the rear in this moving picture.
The white wheel in this next view is the tensioner wheel. Have the belt off of this wheel, and also off of the shaft of the motor.
And so take out the pulsate by lifting information technology slightly to unhook it from the wheels, then pull information technology out the front of the unit.
Hint: Use the belt to lift the dorsum of the drum up.
If the old felt seal is still attached, rip it off, and stand off the former adhesive. If it is already off, like in my instance, still use some sand-paper to rough up the surface so that the new agglutinative has something to cling to.
The side by side stride is not strictly required, but will brand your life easier. Take the new felt seal and stretch it around the drum and into place. The seal I got was a bit tight, and so it was helpful to stretch information technology out and get it into place before applying any adhesive.
At commencement, I didn't worry almost fitting the felt over the drum lip (which will eventually be required) just because I needed to get it stretched out. After the seal has stretched appropriately, then you tin can go back and fit the border of the drum into the fold in the felt seal.
Employ spring clamps to hold the felt seal in place (another option is clothes pins, just they don't concord every bit tight…).
Space the clamps around the drum evenly. The more you have, the improve.
Once you have the felt seal in its final position (with the flap in the seal grabbing the edge, or lip, of the drum, you are gear up to get the agglutinative.
The adhesive is specifically made for high temperature applications. It is very, very sticky. Make certain y'all are ready, and possibly have a partner assistance you.
Advisedly pull dorsum the lip in the felt seal, and apply adhesive gum to the first 1/4″ of the drum lip. Do non get mucilage on the inner part of the pulsate! Lay a minor bead, well-nigh vi inches long, or so, then press the felt seal onto it. Then apply a clamp where y'all have only been, and move on to the next 6 inches.
Below is shown about the advisable amount of agglutinative to use to the dryer drum lip.
After you accept worked your way around the entire drum, position the clamps to hold the felt in place. Make certain it is not 'slipping off' at any positions.
Leave the clamps in place for about 1 hour or and then to let the agglutinative set.
After about an hour, cheque the that adhesive is holding. If it is, become alee and remove the clamps. (If information technology is not, give it some more time).
Position the drum back in the dryer where it was. Remember to put the belt back on it first. Put something about 6 inches thick under the front of the drum to hold information technology upward (I put a bottle of tide underneath information technology.
Look beneath the pulsate, and re-cord the belt dorsum around the motor and tensioner pulley. This can be tricky because the tensioner wheel has a spring, and you demand to pull that dorsum in order to get the chugalug on.
1 tip is to employ something like a screwdriver to pry the tensioner bike up while y'all feed the belt effectually information technology. Some other tip if you withal can't get information technology, is to take out the drum, and wrap a piece of stiff wire around the tensioner arm to concord it up while you put the drum and belt on. (Retrieve to remove the wire or screwdriver when yous are done!).
The next photo shows how the belt should be run around the motor shaft and tensioner wheel.
Afterward the belt is on, lift the forepart panel into identify. Annotation that the rollerblade-like wheels demand to exist hooked under the front lip of the drum. And then information technology works well to hook the wheels under the lip showtime, and then requite a slight lifting motion to go the front panel into place.
Put in the 6 screws that held information technology in place.
2 of the screws are at the bottom.
Reconnect the electrical connection at the lesser.
Adjacent, position the forepart door portion of the dryer.
Information technology has two tabs at the bottom that take to fit in a hole, shown below. Lift up slightly, to become the tabs into the hole, then it rests down a bit.
Put in the ii screws at the meridian and tighten them up with the v/xvi″ socket.
Reconnect the electrical connector.
If everything looks good, go ahead and shut the tiptop panel. It will lock into place on the clips.
The repair is now consummate.
Important! Don't run the dryer for well-nigh 24 hrs or so, to permit the adhesive fully cure.
Thanks for reading!
Did this set up your trouble? Tell the states about it in the comments!
If not, check out this commodity to replace the wheel bearings in your dryer.
Tools and supplies used for this repair:
- 5/xvi in socket (or wrench)
- Flat screwdriver
- Metal paint scraper
- Sandpaper
- spring clamps
- repair kit 280140 (felt seal with adhesive) or repair kit (#W10612022)
Source: https://practicalmechanic.com/2018/11/18/repair-a-screeching-dryer-maytag-bravos/
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